Shein's Last-Ditch Lobbying Can't Erase Its Role in the Fast Fashion Catastrophe

By Sierra Quitiquit and Danielle Butcher Franz

In a last-ditch effort to save its reputation, fast fashion giant Shein invited influencers on all-expense-paid vacations to tour its factories in China – amid accusations of the company using forced labor to construct its garments and using loopholes to avoid American tariffs.

As the influencers posted content from a shiny, futuristic workshop, they immediately came under fire for contributing to Shein’s blatant PR campaign. The accusations against the company are serious, and a 2022 documentary explicitly showed laborers forced to work 17-hour days. 

In addition to these labor concerns, Shein garments have been found to contain unhealthy amounts of lead, and Bloomberg reported that some garments are made with cotton sourced from China’s Xinjiang region, where the Uyghur minority is subjected to slave labor. In addition to the human rights problem, cheaply-made clothes like Shein products contribute to ocean pollution via microfibers, which can have negative effects on human health.

Despite Shein's rapid ascent to becoming the world's largest fashion retailer, it is evident to anyone paying attention that the company is unworthy of support. Operating under a name that cleverly hints at "she's in," Shein has garnered popularity through its cheap products, a continuous stream of trendy merchandise, and a swarm of influencers tirelessly promoting its products. This allure has captivated Gen Z, who find inspiration in Shein's influencer endorsements and affordable price points. 

In the pursuit of aesthetic wardrobes, it is crucial for young consumers to remember the age-old adage: if something seems too good to be true, it probably is. Shein's ability to offer affordable and trendy garments may appear enticing, but behind the allure of low prices, there are hidden costs: compromised labor standards, questionable sourcing practices, and potential harm to both human health and the environment. 

The flashy influencer trip comes at a time when high-level executives from Shein are traveling to Washington D.C. to meet with legislators following the serious accusations. In response to the recent lobbying effort, Senator Marco Rubio, known around the Capitol for his hawkish attitude toward China, sent a “Dear Colleague” letter urging fellow legislators not to fall for Shein’s latest PR campaign. “Shein knows its reputation is toxic, so now it is taking steps to clean up its image ahead of a potential initial public offerings hearing in the United States,” the letter reads. 

The senator joins a chorus of voices that have called out Shein for its lack of transparency and misrepresentations, especially after hosting influencers to do their dirty work for them. This year, a campaign called “Shut Down Shein” was launched to expose the national security threat that the company poses to the United States. Not mentioned in the campaign, but equally as important, is Shein’s disregard for environmental health.

Shein's business plan relies on the relentless churn of fast fashion cycles, where an astonishing number of up to six thousand new designs are rapidly produced and introduced daily. This frenetic pace of creation and release is a hallmark of the fast fashion industry, characterized by its emphasis on speed, trend replication, and disposable garments that are known to disintegrate after the first wash – not to mention the slew of chemicals found in the fabric.

Though the company claims garments aren’t mass-produced until their popularity is proven, their numbers indicate otherwise, with more than 2 million new designs per year. In a stunning statistic, it’s estimated that Shein’s operations result in more carbon emissions than 180 coal-fired power plants, pumping millions of tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere per year.  

While national security and human rights concerns should be enough to inspire Gen Z's activism, it is crucial to highlight Shein's abysmal environmental track record in light of the fact that younger generations, particularly in the United States, prioritize climate action more than any other age group. 

For Gen Z climate activists advocating for emissions reductions, maintaining ideological consistency means refraining from supporting a company like Shein. Fortunately, there is a rising tide of anti-fast fashion sentiment within our generation. Embracing practices such as thrifting, re-wearing garments (even if they have already appeared on your Instagram feed), purchasing from local vendors, and endorsing larger brands that genuinely prioritize sustainability are all vital steps in undermining the dominance of brands like Shein. 

By actively adopting these alternatives, we can collectively challenge the unethical and environmentally damaging practices perpetuated by fast fashion giants. From egregious labor practices, health violations, and environmental destruction, Shein's last-ditch lobbying efforts won’t erase the company’s role in perpetuating the fast fashion catastrophe.

Sierra Quitiquit is a professional Freeskier and environmental champion. Danielle Butcher Franz serves as executive vice president of the American Conservation Coalition (ACC).